Showing posts with label Japan. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Japan. Show all posts

Saturday, November 17, 2012

JET LAG PANAVISIONS

So where was I? Oh yeah, Japan...

  • Fage yogurt is great and all, but not at $20 for a 35 ounce container. Sorry, Costco Japan...
  • On the other hand, Costco did have Mets Grapefruit soda in the garage vending machines, so points for that.
  • Here's the thing about me and karaoke: Conceptually, I am all in. You rent a private box, you order up some food and drinks (more melon soda for me, please), and you have access to a deep catalogue of songs, from both the East and the West. Hell, even my song choices were conceptually sound-- I started off with God Save the Queen (a la Lost in Translation), and followed that up with Surrender. I even tacked on the Budokan intro to Surrender (“This next one is the first song on our new album...”) for good measure. Where it all falls apart, though, is when I open my mouth to sing...
  • We drove from Chiba to Nagoya one Friday-- we left early enough in the morning that we breezed through Tokyo, and had the Rainbow Bridge to ourselves. I had aspirations of seeing Mt. Fuji along the way, but it was mostly obscured by clouds when we stopped for a rest near the Fuji River.
  • The Pacific Ocean was right outside my window for part of the drive to Nagoya. It was nice to see it up close, but I have still never touched it. I was going to ask if we could pull over just so I could stick a foot in...
  • We went to Taeko's childhood home in Seto, which is now empty and on the market. I hadn't been inside the house in 20 years, but I remembered every floorboard...

Wednesday, September 12, 2012

EASTERN PROMISE

Random, elliptical thoughts on 5 weeks in Japan.

  • That John Carter movie is much easier to appreciate when it is doing you the service of eating up 132 minutes of a 13-hour flight. But under no other circumstances should you get close to the damn thing...
  • Day 1: Salty Watermelon Pepsi. It has been established that I'll drink for sport any damn summer flavor that Pepsico can dish out (Shiso, Baobob, Cucumber), but this one actually scored high marks. I brought home an additional three bottles, which are now long gone...
  • I paid $40 for a haircut, which is more than I spend typically in the states. Like, 2.5X more. But I have to say, it bought me the attention of a veritable pit crew of hair technicians. One person washed, deeply and thoroughly. Another cut, and her touch was incredibly light. After another round of washing, a third person delivered an intense head and neck massage. They basically had to use a spatula to pry me out of the chair when all was said and done...
  • If you're reading this and you own stock in Lyon Boulangerie, I'll take the opportunity to say “You're welcome.” This bakery was a frequent lunch destination, and I could not stay away from their crisp and airy garlic rusks. Didn't want to, neither...
  • The CD-rental business model continues to thrive in Japan. I spent several evenings ripping the latest J-pop and anime soundtracks for Taeko and Lana, and I was able to score Best-ofs from The Blue Hearts and Yellow Magic Orchestra for myself. We dropped a little more than $20 in rental fees and added about 30 CDs worth of music to our respective iTunes libraries...
  • I don't eat a whole lot of donuts, but damn Mister Donut Japan, you are one magnificent bastard. The donuts were yeasty and sweet and a size fit for humans, rather than the dense flotation devices that crowd the cases at our local Safeway here. Plus-- and I can't emphasize the plusness of this enough-- melon soda...
  • This was my fifth or sixth time in Japan, and I have to say that squatting toilets and I are still not on speaking terms...
  • Conveyor-belt sushi at least keeps my vegetarian ass entertained while it counts the hours until the next trip to Lyon Boulangerie...
To be continued...

Thursday, December 01, 2011

FLEXIDISCOVERING JAPAN

Trouser Press, March 1982
Japan
Life Without Buildings



David Sylvain: We're well chuffed that you're doing a Japan flexi, but we just had a couple of small requests.

Trouser Press: OK, shoot.

DS: Right. First, could you make the disc roughly the same color as David Bowie's eye makeup in the “Life on Mars?” video?

TP: Done.

DS: Second, we'd like the track to be the almost entirely instrumental, six-plus minute long, cod-Asian, sub-Joy Division B-side to our UK single, “The Art of Parties.”

TP: No prob.

DS: Finally, we'd like it to appear in an issue that features a cover story on Abacab-era Genesis and carries a photo of Mike Rutherford, Phil Collins, and Tony Banks wearing a set of natty '80s sweaters.

TP: You're in luck!





Thursday, March 31, 2011

AFTERSHOCKS

1.

The ground shook four or five times a day.

The circular fluorescent light above the kitchen table would begin to judder and sway, and then the floor would pitch gently for about half a minute.

"How big was that one?"

Suddenly, Lana and Sebastian trusted in me as a seismologist.

"That was a 3."

They were pretty much all 3s.

Oh, I might have thrown in a couple of 4s here and there, just for the sake of my credibility. But mostly they were 3s...

We were in Japan for the funeral of my father-in-law, who had passed away on March 17.

2.

My own father died when I was 12.

I don't recall the last time that I saw him. One day in the spring he left for the hospital, and he just never came back.

I didn't visit him while he was in the hospital. He was in an advanced cirrhotic state, and I suppose my family thought it was better if I didn't see him like that. Not sure who made that choice. Maybe he did.

I didn't attend the funeral, either. It was held in late May, and I ended that school year with perfect attendance.

3.

We arrived at the apartment, and I pulled off my sneakers. We were all tired from the flight, and the kids and I were ready to crash in the tatami room.

As we made our way down the short hallway to the room, something caught the corner of my eye. It was my father-in-law's body, which was laid out in the tatami room under a thick blue and white futon. His face was covered by a handkerchief.

Taeko led us into the room, and she kneeled down to remove the covering from his face. I felt myself retreating.

We started to discuss sleeping arrangements for the night, and I was troubled by the idea of spending the night in the small apartment with the body.

“Maybe the kids can sleep at your brothers. I can go with them.”

But I didn't press the issue.

And as the evening went on, I began to get more comfortable. I realized that my father-in-law was giving me a gift.

It was the gift of learning how to say goodbye.

4.

The next day, the mortician came to the house and prepared the body to be moved. He brought a simple white casket made of pressed wood, with hinged flaps that opened to expose my father-in-law's face. When the body was placed in the casket, it was covered from the neck down by a board that was designed to look like a suit. Which is a very practical vestment for a cremation...

My family chanted over the casket for a few minutes, and then the mortician and his assistant carried the box outside and lifted it into a Toyota Crown hearse. We all faced the car and bowed as it pulled away, and we said thank you to my father-in-law.

“Arigato, ojichan.”

5.

The wake was a simple and moving ceremony.

The family sat at the front of the room, and two-by-two we stood up to face the mourners. Taeko and I went together-- we bowed to thank everyone for coming, then turned and faced my father-in-law at the front of the hall. There were two small boxes on a table, and each box contained a pile of ground incense on one side and a burning silver ember on the other. We grabbed a pinch of incense, lifted it to our foreheads, and then placed it on the ember.

We repeated this rite three times, and then said a quick, silent prayer. Lana later told me that I “did a good job pretending to be Buddhist”...

When we had finished that segment, the mourners began to come up in twos and threes to another table that contained the same type of incense boxes. We bowed to each group from our chairs, and they went on to perform the same basic ritual that we had performed earlier. Their prayers completed, we bowed to them again.

It all felt so much like a funeral that I wondered what the next day would bring.

6.

The initial part of the funeral was indeed very much like the wake. But when the prayers and chanting were over, three or four employees of the funeral home began to break down the area surrounding my father-in-law's casket. Then they placed a couple of metal stands in the center of the room, about 5 feet apart. They moved the casket onto these stands, and slid off the lid.

We gathered around my father-in-law, and the mortician brought in a plate of succulent green sprigs. We each grabbed a small handful and placed them in the casket. This was followed by multiple trays of flowers, which we spread around as well. By the time we were finished, the interior of the casket was dazzlingly bright, and exuded a sweet, floral perfume.

The casket was covered again, and I joined my nephews and some of Taeko's cousins as we carried it out of the hall and placed it on a large gurney. A procession of mourners followed the gurney to the crematorium, where the casket was wheeled into an oven. The steel doors of the oven were then sealed shut, and we heard the muted whoosh of fire.

7.

We were whisked to a long, narrow room for lunch.

Bento boxes with colorful block letters for the kids: A is for Apple, B is for Banana, and the like. Larger blue sets decorated with white flowers for the adults.

Taeko reached into her bag and handed me an onion bagel sealed in a Ziploc.

8.

After about an hour, the door opened, and we were led out, back to the crematorium. We gathered in an anteroom while Taeko, her mother, and her brother went into a large reception area. The kids and I craned our necks and looked around corners in an effort to see what they were doing.

One of the assistants came around with a bucket containing large chopsticks-- they were the size of drumsticks, and the tips were darkened with ash. We were each encouraged to take two. I rolled them around in my hand, and tried to grip them like regular chopsticks. But they were too big for that.

When we entered the reception hall, we found the burnt remains of the casket, intermingled with my father-in-law's ashes and his deep white bones. Working in pairs, we chose a bone from the skeletal array and picked it up with our chopsticks. If my sketchy knowledge of human anatomy is correct, my partner and I selected his right ulna.

We all placed the bones in a small white box.

9.

It was a beautiful ritual.

If you had asked me in the cold light of a previous day how I might have felt about such an experience, I can't honestly say I would have embraced it. I might have been concerned about how it would affect the kids. I might have been concerned about how it would affect me.

But in the moment, I felt connected to something real and profound. It felt fittingly similar to the experience of witnessing Lana's birth.

10.

I sat in the passenger's seat on the drive home, with the box of my father-in-law's bones warming my lap.

Arigato, ojichan.

11.

We did not feel a single aftershock during our last two days in Japan.

Tuesday, July 13, 2010

THE EAST'S NOT SO FAR AWAY

Leaving tomorrow morning for a couple of weeks in Japan. See you in early August!